Heatmaker.com is committed to providing you with information that can help you avoid mechanical malfunction before it becomes an issue.

Function:

This series has no built-in storage tank and requires a flow-limiting thermostat as its flow (supply). This limits the minimum temperature of the boiler to 150-160 degrees F and prevents the cold system return from creating condensation on the copper fin coils that would eventually foul them.

Note: Make sure that the boiler pump has been checked and is functioning properly.

Thermostat Locations:

• H and EDP models have an automotive type thermostat located in a black ips-type union installed in the supply-to-system piping no more that 2 feet from the boiler
• The 9600 series and Summits have a built-in thermostat accessible via a removable plate on the top jacket.

Typical Problems:

In normal operation upon ignition, boiler temp rises quickly to 150 to 160 degrees F and then settles there until the return temperature starts to rise.

Failures:

• Type A:  The thermostat is stuck in the open position. The temperature rise upon ignition is very slow until returns start to heat-up.
• Type B:  The thermostat fails to open. The temperature rises rapidly and the unit shuts down on its limit.

Replacement Thermostat Part Numbers:

Models H and EDP:  2400-030

Models CB and HWG, pre-1995:     2400-129

Models CB, HWG and Summit, post-1995:  2400-130

If you have any questions, call Heatmaker’s technicians Monday-Friday, 5:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m., EST; and Saturday 5:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., EST.

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Heatmaker is committed to providing you with information that can help you avoid mechanical malfunction before it becomes an issue. This describes lockout modes for the Heatmaker H/HW Plus units and for the Heatmaker Mark II units.

Lockouts are a critical safety feature that mitigates the possibility of a faulty start-up when the flame-sensing device fails to identify combustion within 5 to 7 seconds of gas valve opening or during the combustion cycle. The unit will attempt 3 cycles before going into lockout.

When the unit is in lockout mode, the internal pump will run continuously and its temperature, as seen on the temperature gauge, will drop below 160 degrees. The unit will reset by interrupting its power switch or a red 24-volt wire in control circuit.

There are three different failure modes leading to lockouts and, therefore, it is important to identify in seconds the length of time that the gas valve is powered. The length of the cycle will be either (a) 1 to 2 seconds, (b) 5 to 7 seconds, or (c) more than 10 seconds.

Failure Modes and Evaluation:
(a) 1–2 seconds. Power that is drawn by when the gas valve powers-on drops the 24 volts below the module’s minimum.
1. Many Mk-II units have a small tapered minimum pressure switch (2 red wires) which may leak causing it to ground out the 24-volt circuit. Remove two red wires and temporally jump to test operation.
2. Gas valve grounded or shorted: Read resistance across valve connections, with orange wire removed. Resistance should be 14 to 16 ohms.

(b) 5-7 seconds. The unit fails to identify strong flame signal.
1. Faulty Igniter. Read resistance across igniter, should be under 100 ohms(60-80 cold).
2. Confirm gas source is present either by observing that other commonly connected gas appliances are working or using water gauge at inlet of valve. (4” to 14” water column). [Do not attempt to measure gas pressure at valve outlet, as this is a negative pressure gas valve.]

(c) 10-plus seconds. The unit establishes flame but then fails after 10 seconds or longer.
This applies to concentric type venting (pipe 3” within a pipe 5” venting) through wall venting. Exhaust gases in the 3”inner pipe are leaking through connection joints into outer 5” air source pipe. These gases dilute air source and cause flame failure.
1. Typical identification is strong unpleasant smell at exhaust terminal.
2. Remove and repair (seal) the leaking joints) or replace venting with factory approved stainless vent piping.

If you have any questions, call Heatmaker’s technicians Monday-Friday, 5:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m., EST; and Saturday 5:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., EST.

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Heatmaker is committed to providing you with information that can help you avoid mechanical malfunction before it becomes an issue.

These service issues relate to Low Limit control and its function.

The Low Limit control has two functions. First, it maintains minimum tank temperature for instant hot water use. Second, it provides domestic hot water (DHW) priority by temporarily cutting the 24-volt power on the thermostat (T-T) terminals during a domestic hot water draw.

Problems may result from improper positioning, venting or wiring; each allowing the unit to operate for domestic hot water but not enabling heating zones to operate.

If you are experiencing problems:

1. Check to be sure that the Low Limit is properly mounted on the vertical section of the ¾” hot water supply coming out of the tank, close to the tank.
2. If the positioning is correct and space heating still does not function, then release any air via the vent screw on top of DHW tank.
3. Finally, check the wiring to ensure that it is correct.

Wiring sequence (wiring color of Low Limit connects to wiring color of unit):

HW+ (Plus)

Red (on Low Limit) to Red (on unit), Black to Gray, Brown to White

HW – M2 (Mark II)

Red to White/red stripe, Brown to Gray, Black to Red/Black stripe

If you have any questions, call Heatmaker’s technicians Monday-Friday, 5:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m., EST; and Saturday 5:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., EST.

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Heatmaker.com is committed to providing you with information that can help you avoid mechanical malfunction before it becomes an issue.

If your AMTI Trianco Heatmaker Model H or HW unit exhibits boiling, kettling or moaning noises upon a rise in the boiler temperature, it is time to siphon clean the combustion coil boiler tubes.

You will need two quarts of coil cleaning solution (use either CLR or white vinegar) and 3 feet of 3/16″ plastic tubing to complete the process.

1. Turn off the valves at the boiler and water sources.
2. Note: If your model is a Heatmaker Mark II (M2), make sure that the high vent cap is tight so that no air escapes.
3. Drain only enough water from the system drain to drop the boiler pressure to zero. When the pressure is at zero, close the drain.
4. Remove the petcock valve assembly from the end of the coil bleed tube.
5. Note: For HW-M2 units after sn 294-1107, obtain bleed tube assembly part #2400-028.
6. Place the 3/16” hose or tubing on the petcock line and secure with a clamp or tie-wrap.
7. Place the other end of the hose or tubing into a container of the diluted cleaning solution. Place the container above level of boiler coil.
8. Open the fill valve slightly to fill siphon tube, and then close it again.
9. Slowly open the boiler drain to pull approximately one quart of solution out of the container into boiler coil.
10. Close the boiler drain when the coil is full of solution.
11. Let the boiler drain sit for 15-20 minutes to allow cleaning solution to dislodge contaminants. When the cleansing time has elapsed, add system water to the unit to flush the cleaner back out through the tube. When the liquid running through the tube is clear the cleaning solution is out of the boiler coil.
12. Remove the tube from the bleed tube and replace the petcock assembly
13. Note: On M-2 series, open float vent cap.
14. Turn on the water source and open all isolation valves and purge zones, as required.
15. As a preventative measure, you may choose to add an anti-foamant to the system via the siphon method.
16. Return your Heatmaker boiler to service.

If you have any questions, call our technicians Monday-Friday, 5:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.,   EST; and Saturday 5:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., EST.

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1.        Turn off electrical power to the unit.

2.        Run domestic hot water (DHW) until faucets run cold.

3.        Close the valves on the cold water supply and hot outlet piping.

4.        Relieve coil pressure at the Pressure Relief Valve (PRV), then remove the PRV.

5.        Using adapters as required, connect a hose to the fitting where the PRV was removed.

6.        Connect the other end of the hose to the outlet of a self -priming pump.

7.        Connect another hose to the suction side of the pump; the opposite end of the hose sits in a plastic bucket positioned beneath the mixing valve.

8.        Mix the recommended dilution strength of cleaner in the plastic bucket.

9.        Start your AMTI Trianco Heatmaker pump and circulate the solution for 7-15 minutes.

10.     When completed, remove the hoses, reinstall PRV and open the cold water supply to flush the cleaner from the coil.

11.     Reassemble the mixing valve, open all valves and then run hot water for 5 minutes.

12.     Return the unit to service.

13.     Water filter or softener is recommended in some areas.

Download this diagram for further guidance:  Reassemble the mixing valve

If you have any questions, call our technicians Monday-Friday, 5:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m., EST; and Saturday 5:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., EST.

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Please note that this rewiring is needed only when safety limit wires are orange. It is not necessary when the safety limit wires are red.

If you need to update your Hi-Limit, follow this simple procedure:

1.    Remove both (2) orange wires from the safety limit.

2.    Connect these wires together using the new orange jumper from the kit.

3.    Disconnect the operating control connector.

4.    Connect one end of the new red jumper inside the kit to the disconnected operating control connector.

5.    Connect the other end of this jumper to the safety limit switch.

6.    Connect the remaining red wire to the safety limit switch.

Download this  diagram for more guidance: ORIGINAL SAFETY WIRES

This wiring change updates older Heatmakers to the current certified design.

If you have any questions, call our technicians Monday-Friday, 5:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.,  EST; and Saturday 5:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., EST.

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(Recognizing the earlier model: In earlier models, the Hi-Limit control is mounted through the left side of the control panel.  You’ll see small tubing going up into the chamber. The control is wired with two orange wires.)

To update the wiring, cut the two orange wires on the Heatmaker Hi-Limit control and reconnect them going to the panel to complete the electrical circuit.  Then, on the strap-on operating control, located just below the pressure and temperature gauge, disconnect one of the two red wires and route them back into the control panel.  Connect both with spade connectors directly to the Hi-Limit (or wire-connect to two orange wire ends left attached to the Hi-Limit).   Now the Hi-Limit is wired in series with the operation control.

To prove-out your servicing, restart the unit and while it is running remove one connected red wire from the Heatmaker Hi-Limit. The unit should stop running if wired correctly. If you have any questions, call our technicians Monday – Friday, 5:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.,   EST; and Saturday 5:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., EST.

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(U.S.) 800-536-1582

(International) 00-1-339-440-2081

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Taco 1/2 HP Pump

Laars Heating Systems changed their pump vendor, moving from Bell & Gossett (B&G) to Taco.  B&G utilized pump components from China and this caused many problems.   Parts4heating provided Laars Mighty Therm customers with hundreds of B&G pumps and our customers had countless problems.

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(U.S. ) 800-536-1582

(International) 00-1-339-440-2081

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We Have What You Want When You Need It.